Bright also dabbled in the hot-dog world – a smoked veal and beef frankfurter with hot curry-mustard, crispy onions and a gherkin relish. The hyped squid sandwich went viral at the beginning of the pandemic – soft brioche, creamy aioli and crispy fried squid topped off with a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt. Franco and Peg – adapted to selling one of its sought-after menu favourites as to-go sandwich orders. Rick JordanĪddress: Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean Street, Soho, London W1D 3LL Telephone: +44 20 7437 9585 Website: .ukĪnother lockdown success, Bright – from the guys behind Noble Fine Liquor, P. But we know which one we’d order two Martinis down. It’s an elegant flavour grenade to kickstart jaded appetites and, like Chiltern Firehouse’s crab doughnut or Dishoom’s bacon naan, a modern London classic.
Over the years it’s become a favourite and is now into its third decade, always made with toasted Parisian sourdough from Poilâne, eels from the flatlands of Lincolnshire, a dab of mustard cream and splodge of horseradish on top, and graced by a sprinkling of red onion half-pickled in cider vinegar. The restaurant is headed up by the ever so shy-and-retiring Jeremy Lee, who came here from the Blueprint Café, where he first concocted the smoked-eel sandwich. This legendary (in the best sense) hangout likes to dine out on its reputation as a long-standing Soho bon vivant, and who can blame it – it’s been at the heart of bohemian London since the early 20th century, the scene of much late-night naughtiness and morning-after confessionals. Rick JordanĪddress: Trullo, 300-302 St Paul’s Road, London N1 2LH Telephone: +44 20 7226 2733 Website: It's big and gooey, a wallop of carby, crunchy satisfaction that Tony Soprano would approve of. There are, of course, other meatball subs that shall remain nameless, but which pale into effete insignificance compared to this: a mighty, molten hunk fashioned from Tamworth pork, slow-cooked tomato sauce and three cheeses (Comté, Cheddar and Parmesan), and blasted in the oven for 10 minutes. All of them are worthy contenders, but are knocked aside by Trullo’s spicy meatball sub.
There’s also a small range of takeaway sandwiches, including mozzarella and pesto, porchetta and salsa verde and chicken and tarragon mayonnaise. During lockdown, like many others, it pivoted on its shiny Gucci loafers and opened a deli next door – a little enclave of warm bread baked at sibling restaurant Padella, loops of fresh pasta, pre-prepared meals (including a fine lasagne) and lots of wine. This north London favourite has been stirring up punchy Italian plates for the past decade, and in the process redefined what it meant to be a neighbourhood restaurant.
By Sophie KnightĪddress: Bodega Rita’s, 91 Cowcross Street, London EC1M 6BH Website: You might want to extend your lunch break and grab a table to eat in – that way, you can sample juicy pork and beef tacos that aren’t available for takeaway. The Sophia Loren, meanwhile, is the superior vegetarian option: aubergine-polenta parmigiana, marinara, iceberg lettuce, fermented chilli vinaigrette, pepper and vegan cheese. The Second City is a popular order, stuffed with slow-roasted rubbed beef, provolone piccante, iceberg lettuce, vinegar pepper relish, chilli-oregano pangrattato, house mayonnaise and American mustard. There are six sub sandwiches, packed with meat and marinated vegetables, on the menu. Now, they’ve added to their address book with a sandwich shop in Clerkenwell. After closing their Coal Drops Yard spot in King’s Cross in 2020, Missy Flynn and Gabriel Pryce of Bodega Rita’s opened a natural, low-intervention and biodynamic bottle shop and deli pop-up in Soho.
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